Wednesday, June 27, 2012

A day in Assisi--Italy 4

Our next adventure was into the town of Assisi, which you might be familiar with as the town from which St. Francis of Assisi came (I only am familiar with St. Francis, because I went to a Catholic school which was called...St. Francis. So he featured a lot in our daily lives).  The roads to get there were so curvy and swervy that both girls were feeling ill and we had to stop to let Evie walk around even after giving her anti-nausea meds.

Assisi is a beautiful city into which one descends to reach the famous Basilica, where some of the best preserved frescoes reside on the walls and ceilings.  To get there, we took a back roads route through flower filled streets and stopped to listen to a pianist practicing for a concert later that evening.   We could hear her/him playing through a tightly sealed building and the girls clapped every time the mysterious pianist stopped.
I think that there were a lot of Italian grandmas in Assisi because the flowers were really beautiful.


Sampling some homemade potpourri:
A typical Italian shrine:

The girls were hungry, so we stopped for a panini:
And then to take in the sights in and around the main square:
 
 
 
We also stopped for lunch where, as usual, we ordered way too much food, and, fortified by gnocchi, a gigantic pizza (which Jim couldn't eat because he had been sick and lost his appetite), two bowls of 'kid sized' spaghetti bolognese and bread sticks, we headed to the Basilica.  
 I had been very careful to bring a modest dress, which reached to my knees, so I was shocked when I was asked to ‘cover myself’ as we walked in.  Apparently, not only are your knees supposed to be covered, but so are your shoulders.  Sinner that I am, I didn’t have anything to cover my shoulders (it was HOT), so I had to borrow a piece of cloth from the church to cover my indecency.  I was FUMING (because the guy who asked me to cover myself, did so in a very condescending way, as if I was dressed like a prostitute) and loudly exclaimed that THIS was why I didn’t go to church!
 But then I got over it and enjoyed the frescos and some of the relics (although I was feeling pretty annoyed with the church at that point still).  The frescos ARE Pretty amazing, beautiful colors and on the ceilings and walls.  Plus the view overlooking the Umbrian countryside was pretty incredible:
 
 
I scoffed at Jim when he suggested we take a taxi back up the hill from the Basilica...but he was right.  He had been sick (someone always gets sick when we go to Italy. This time it was Jim and Millie) and the hill was really steep and extra steep when pushing a stroller and/or carrying a 25 pound toddler on your back. We stopped for a break at a beautiful gelateria, with giant, lavishly decorated meringues in the window and loud swing music playing. It’s proprietor was Roberto and he was friendly, even when Evie knocked four glasses off our table and they shattered into a million pieces. Whoops.  Then, in the process of putting Millie into the sling on my back, Jim lifted up my dress and everyone on the street got a good look at my orange panties.  WHOOPS!  Good thing that didn’t happen in the Basilica.  I would have definitely gone straight to hell, with my exposed shoulders and my panties on display.

Back on the home front and after they had a long nap in the car, the girls were ready for the still frigid pool.  I sat on the side, monitoring while Millie played on the steps (twice tipping herself over and not able to get back up…it’s easy to see how a toddler can drown in very little water. Scary).  And when they were sufficiently blue, we headed back up for a warming bath and dinner. Then Jim and I had a date at the onsite restaurant, conveniently located next door to our apartment.  We put Millie to bed and left Evie watching a video and she checked in about every ten minutes by shouting for us from our patio.  We did manage to get through dinner and when we came back they were both sleeping and, most importantly, still there. Mission accomplished!

Lago Trasimano and Castiglione del Lago--Italy Part 3

After our restful day on the farm, we decided to go explore Lago Trasimano, the nearby lake (well, sort of near...it took us about an hour to get there). We had gotten mixed reviews from another family staying at the villa about the lake (the grandmother and kids loved it; the grandfather didn't), but we decided to take our chances and enjoy a day at the 'beach.'  It really did feel kind of like going to the beach, with flat, winding roads curving through bohemian style housing and the sun glaring down.  On our way we could see Cortona, the sight of our ill-fated 2010 Italy trip (extreme flight delays, crowded trains, flu...shudder).  When we got to the village of Castiglione del Lago, we climbed up some steep steps and into the walls of the town (castle), headed for the recommended restaurant, which had a nice view, but terrible service and surly waitstaff.  After forty-five minutes of my pasta not arriving and the girls about to implode from the effort it took to behave in a civilized manner for that long, we cancelled my order and headed out for gelato.


 ....which was served by the grumpiest server of gelato on the face of the planet who sneered, "It's pistachio flavored!" when I asked if Evie could taste his pistachio gelato.  It was too much effort to explain to him that she had never HAD pistachio flavored anything, but he had decided to indulge us by then and let her taste a sample, despite the fact that we were moronic tourists.  By the way, there were TONS of Americans in Castiglione del Lago...so maybe that was the problem.  Our reputation precedes us.
 Finally we made our way to the highly anticipated lake, taking the scenic route through hot olive groves and all the way around the castle walls...and then down a seemingly never ending staircase. It was hot and we were ready to swim (except for me. I forgot my bathing suit) and I'm sorry to say that the Lake was neither cool nor refreshing. I think I'm not really a lake person, because I don't like slime or the feel of slimy mud between my toes.  I also don't like walking on a beach that has glass all over it (which this one did).  But Jim and the girls walked on in despite the slime and other unidentified stuff and seemed to really enjoy it. No one got a bacterial infection or anything...but this was no Lake Annecy!
 The highlight of our visit to the lake was my purchase of a beautiful cutting board, which I got for a fraction of the price I would have paid in London.  Also, in purchasing the cutting board, we got to engage with the charming, older owner of the charcuterie where we bought it and he called Evie 'bella' and gave her a piece of salami (Millie was in the car with Jim).  Evie also talked me into buying some really yummy biscotti.  So it was a good day after all! 

A quiet Day in Casacastalda--italy Part 2

After our exciting day in Gubbio, we decided to have a quiet day at 'home' and just hung around Casacastalda a little bit.  Since playgrounds are the highlight of the girls' life, we made them extra happy by taking them to the town playground.
Here is me looking extremely bad and being extremely irresponsible by baking in the Italian sun without sunscreen at the town playground. I paid for it later...but it was worth it to feel the sun:
Then we hit up the slightly gruesome pork stand in town (that's a roasted pig there in the background).  All the carnivores thoroughly enjoyed chowing down on pork at 10:30 am.
More scenes from the village:




 Millie and Jim needed a nap, so Evie and I decided to take a walk down to the neighboring village of Carbonesca.  It was beautiful!


 We stopped off in a cemetary on our way down.  Evie was  very interested in knowing more about the people in the pictures.
 There were some nice houses in Carbonesca and a nice bar in which to buy ice cream...and a nice looking bar tender who called Evie "bella" and then took off on his motorcycle.
 On the way back up the very steep hill, Evie didn't complain too much and picked a beautiful bouquet of wildflowers for us to have on our dinner table.

 And when we got back, the lovely Millie was awake and happy and the flower girls played in the on-site playground to their hearts content.


 
Unfortunately, our evening was fraught with drama when I heard some scuffling under our bed and found a rather large scorpion traversing the floor.  Much hopping around with a broom ensued and we finally swept it out into the night, but I wasn't able to settle down for a while after that.  This reaction from someone who grew up with Louisiana cockroaches!!  Luckily it was our only scorpion encounter, although we did see a snake eating a lizard, which was exciting.  The lizard escaped, but was, I think, mortally wounded. The snake slithered off and probably came back for him later.  Ahh...nature!