It was warm in Venice. So warm, in fact, that Jim's camera lens steamed up, but he was still able to capture the moment when a random older Italian gentleman came up and talked to Evie. I don't speak Italian, but I did understand when he said to Evie that she had only one 'solo mama.' Hopefully she'll remember those wise words when she's a rebellious teenager.
The apartment we rented was above a lively bar, but thanks to exhaustion, earplugs and thick metal shutters, we all slept really well in pitch black. The next morning, Jim got up and went out to take pictures and run some errands while Evie and I prepared to go get some coffee and run our own errands. Unfortunately for us, we discovered that we were locked into the apartment while Jim was out enjoying the sights. Our key worked on the outside of the door, but not on the inside, so when Jim dead bolted us in, we couldn't get out again. But he took some great pictures while we were trapped!
Trash collection in Venice:
After what seemed like an eternity, but actually was just about an hour, Jim came back and rescued us and we headed out to a market. But first: Coffee! The Italian coffee rivals Louisiana chicory coffee. It is seriously good.
The next mission was to get a stroller. Lots of people told us that Venice with a stroller would be a pain, so we decided just to bring Evie and her carrier. After about thirty minutes of Evie in her carrier in the heat, we decided that a stroller was a very good idea. We needed a lightweight stroller for traveling anyway, so we got one and everyone, including Evie, was a lot happier. And now that we're back in London, the light stroller is making public transportation a lot easier for me.
Caffeinated and on wheels, we headed for the Venice market, where I got bruised and battered by an old lady. She elbowed me out of her way! After the initial shock I felt, I realized that this is a tactic I'm definitely going to use when I'm an old lady.
The modern day gondolier:
We didn't take a gondola, but we saw a lot of them.
We wandered along the water for a while. Venice feels like the beach, but without the beach and it was fun to see people driving along in their boats and then hopping out to walk into their canal-side houses. In Santa Elena, we stopped for lunch before heading to La Biennale di Venezia.
Evie has discovered a new found passion for oranges:
Jim and his mini.
It appears that we may have another map enthusiast in the family. Before mapping out our next destination, she ate the island of Murano.
Just a reminder of what many of the toilets are like in Italy:
La Bienale is a collection of buildings and sites around the city, where countries from around the world showcase the art of one or two of their up and coming artists. The main exhibition is located in a park and usually happens biannually, but because they have been renovating the buildings, this is the first time in 10 years that the exhibit has been open. It was very exciting to be able to visit Venice during the year that the show was on!
Very cool house on the way to the exhibit.
Evie was very impressed with Sweden's display. It gave her hope that by the time she is two, she, too, can be an internationally renowned artist. It also put her to sleep.
The sleeping critic posed with her favorite art throughout the day:
She also went to a rave (as a side note, we also enjoyed Russia's gallery, which featured watercolor sketches of future monuments with titles like "the houses take revenge" where houses attack cities).
Map art for Jim:
Norway, Switzerland and Finland joined forces to build the home of a (fictitious) famous gay writer who has writer's block and, I guess, drowns himself. Here Jim and Evie happily pose next to the dead guy floating in the pool.
And Evie enjoyed sleeping through the interior. Later, during a rain storm, people were settled down on the furniture and in the writer's bed.
Awake again, she finds herself sitting on a fluorescent orange line. What to do?
Then, into a spider-like room with Daddy:
Rain
Evie was happy to discuss the incredible satisfaction she gets from eating her stroller manual.
Venice's building, of course, featured much glass, inside and out.
Hey, he moved!
After a long day of walking and a big dose of culture, we opted to take the water taxi back to our part of town. Somehow Jim managed to dislodge his empty water bottle from his backpack and it flew across a few seats and beaned an older Italian guy oh the head. Jim apologized, but still got some rant that included "AMERICAN" (stupid? Go home? Big Fat? Who knows..it's nice when people say nasty things to you in a language you don't understand.)
The pout was en vogue on our second morning. We imagine that by the time Evie is a teenager, she will have this "I'm SO BORED" slouch and pout perfected.
There was some interest in watching a swarm of pigeons in San Marco Square, but then Jim was horrified at the sight of a seagull feasting on one of his diseased brethren, so we were forced to move on.
Definitely more interested in feet than the tower:
FINALLY, something fun happened!
Venetian gardens:
This cat wanted nothing to do with me--and I'm the cat lady! But when her owner, a little Italian old lady (who probably elbows people) came around the corner, the cat ran towards her with true love in her eyes.
Jim on a really old bridge. We tried to get out of the main touristy areas and saw some beautiful architecture.
Clean clothes hanging in the Jewish Ghetto:
And a Venice 'street' leading out to the Adriatic Sea:
Then we moved on via water taxi to the island of Murano, land of the famous Murano glass. Dou Dou was ever present on this trip and he smelled pretty bad. Evie didn't seem to mind.
My two favorites on the water taxi.
A gate on the island of Murano, tourist trap central:
Murano turned out to be not that interesting. There were a lot of 'free demonstrations' being offered, which were then followed by hard presses to buy. Most of the glass looked like something we could get anywhere. Plus Evie had eaten that part of our map, so it was hard to do too much exploring the back alleys. So we did what we do best and found a place to eat!
Evie was happy!
My salad and me in a picture that is almost identical to a picture Jim took of me the last time we went to Italy. Apparently I pose well with salad.
A bail of hay made entirely of golden glass.
Jim shared one of his favorite things with Evie. In the process, Dou Dou gained two new spots (chocolate).
Back in Venice, we stumbled upon more Binale exhibits, scattered around the city. This one was Thailand's (I think?). The dragon had two spheres which provided various strengths. I decided I needed all the strengths I could get, so I gave it a rub.
Frolicking in the streets of Venice:
And finally, after a long day, we went home and Evie could crawl her heart out (which is all she ever wants to do besides snuggling with her Daddy and sitting on stone lions):
Our apartment did not have a bathtub. The first night I plopped Evie into the shower and discovered that she is seriously scared of the shower nozzle. The second night I tried showering with her, which also ended in hysteria. So, our only other option was the kitchen sink. Clearly she wasn't too happy about that either.
But she cheered up!
It was a great trip and a nice get away. We have only ever had happy times in Italy and can't wait to get back again sometime soon.
